COOLING COMPONENTS

Their are a few things you need to look at before you buy cooling parts, Sure you could just through money at it until you change out enough parts to stumble across the problem or we can check on a few things and possibly save lots of money and time.

The first thing you want to look at is were is your problem, is it at low RPM's like in traffic or on the trail or at high speed this can give us good info on were to start looking for the problem. Their are only a few major parts to the basic cooling system look at these parts and see if they are worn out, leaking, miss sized or even missing. Some of this stuff can be eliminated by just measuring or the fact you just put in that new part. Their are many other smaller parts to the cooling system that you can look at to make it run even cooler but they will not fix the major problems.

1. The engine: You will want to check your timing and fuel mixture this can cause over heating. If you just rebuilt the motor make sure you put the head gaskets on the right way if you put them on wrong they will cover some of the holes for water to pass through and cause over heating. Some run a crossover tube on the back of the manifold and it might some but it is more of something that will help you fine tune the system but wont solve the major overheating problem.
2. The water pump: If you are running a stock water pump their isn't any thing you can do to make it better except to replace it with a better one but you can make it spin faster and that will help.
3. The water pump pulley: You need to make sure the water pump pulley is smaller than the crank pulley if it is this will make the water pump and the fan spin faster cooling the engine better, make sure the pulley is not too small this will cause the water to cavitate and cause overheating.
4. The cooling fan:
5. The hoses: Are they cracked or leaking? Are they soft and spongy? if rubber hoses get oil on them regularly they get soft.
6. The coolant: Is it just low? water is great for cooling but makes rust and freezes, run antifreeze it changes the freezing and boiling points of the coolant. A 50/50 mix is what they recommend don't add to much, in this case more isn't better.
7. The Radiator:
8. Coolant recovery: This is one of the things that is usually over looked but can really affect the system. If the engine gets hotter during hard driving the water could expand which would be released by the pressure cap into the recovery bottle and as it cools again it will be pulled back into the radiator. If the bottle is missing or leaks you will start to loose water and soon be overheating.
9. The fan shroud: If you don't have one the fan just circulates air from the hot engine compartment and will pull some through the radiator. If you have a fan shroud the air is forced through the radiator cooling the hot water.

V8 RADIATOR SS MOUNTING HARDWARE KIT: This kit comes with all of the hardware to install a fan shroud and radiator mounts.

STOCK UPPER AND LOWER:  No engine swap is complete without a new set of hoses. These upper and lower molded hoses are just like the stock ones for a sure fit.

SERPENTINE UPPER  W A/C:  We also have a hose that is a great fit when using A/C or an air compressor on the drivers side. Just like it was made for it the hose wraps around the back of the compressor and then straight in to the radiator. with this hose you will need the 90* thermostat housing.

BY-PASS HOSE: This hose is the hose that goes between the thermostat housing and the water pump it is molded at 90* and is larger on one end.

THE 5.0 HEATER PIPE TO A/C BULKHEAD HOSE: This hose is used when you have a 5.0 with EFI and are using the stock heater tubes you will need a 90* hose to connect the A/C bulk head to the 5.0 heater pipe.

There are many different ways you can run your heater hoses, for stock or with EFI using heater pipes. We have a few different solutions to make them look as clean as possible.

 We have a new chrome replacement housing that uses a rubber o-ring instead of a paper gasket.

The other option is the later 80's style 90* housing used with A/C or serpentine to keep the hose away from the fan and belts.

This quality REVERSE ROTATION water pump is the unit that comes with our serpentine kits. The unique housing and impeller design provides maximum water flow in reverse rotation, making this the perfect water pump for effective cooling of either your serpentine equipped engine. The housing is cast steel with the lower hose outlet on the correct (passenger) side so you can use a stock type Bronco radiator and lower hose. We feel this is the best way to go because you will be more  likely to find someone on the trail with a stock spare hose or a local parts store to have a stock type radiator than some special one off, or custom stuff.

Stock water pump	REVERSE water pump

V-BELT PULLEY SYSTEMS RUN CLOCKWISE  OR STANDARD ROTATION:

SERPENTINE BELT SYSTEMS RUN COUNTER CLOCKWISE OR REVERSE ROTATION:

When you go to serpentine this is the pulley you want to run  it has 8 holes in it so that you can use either of the 2 water pump bolt patterns. This steel pulley is 4.5" in diameter  and powder coated black

We now make a smaller 2 groove aluminum pulley that is 5 3/8 in diameter to speed up the water pump and help keep the motor cool. This pulley has 8 holes in it so that you can use either of the 2 water pump bolt patterns. This is a heavy duty quality part made in the USA.

The stock pulley is about 6"

This is an awesome fan, built strong and tuff  it pulls 4500 cfm. this is more than enough to keep you cool in the trail. Because this is not a flex fan it pulls much more air at lower RPM's great for traffic and the trail yet it pulls plenty of air at higher speeds. The only drawback of this fan is it makes more noise than a standard flex fan, but with no top, doors, big tires and deep tone mufflers who cares.

Tired of cheap parts store flex fans flexing into your radiator in water crossings, not being able to cool your engine at low RPMs, or not even working well at high speeds? This fan by Derale Cooling Products has been chosen by B.C. Broncos as the ultimate mechanical fan for the Early Bronco. It features stainless steel flex blades

B.C. Broncos' Radiator Guard  will work with all flex fans from 14" thru 18". This product will help keep the fan from contacting the radiator on any car , truck or SUV and is highly recommended on all applications that place the fan less than 2" from the radiator. Made of steel and powder-coated in black. Don't wait one minute too long, this is very inexpensive radiator insurance! WILL NOT WORK WITH FIXED PITCH FANS. We changed how this mounts to the radiator now you just bolt it on using the same holes as the fan shroud.

These spacers are a tight fit on the water pump keeping all of the holes aligned this is a good feature when you are trying to align the fan, spacer,  pulley and water pump in a confined space. Aluminum spacer kits come with bolts and washers.

This Slim line fan comes in diameters from 7" to 16". The 12" version is the best electric fan we could find for the Early Bronco. The "Tornado" electric fan from Derale Cooling Products features a swept wing blade design which provides increased airflow over old style straight blades. This is the only truly reversible fan on the market, capable of pusher or puller duty with no loss of performance. Another great feature of this fan is the blade-protecting grille guard. Installation kit includes all necessary hardware to install the fan in manual on/off configuration. We recommend using these fans as helper fans not as primary cooling fans, especially in the mid western part of the United States.

Nothing can kill an automatic transmission quicker than overheating the fluid. And nothing gets a transmission hotter than off-roading. Protect your transmission by installing this heavy duty transmission oil cooler from Derale Cooling Products. This cooler has an integral fan and shroud for maximum airflow through the cooler even during slow rock crawling in the desert heat. This fan is reversible with equal efficiency as a puller or pusher.

We like to run this cooler on top of the passenger inner fender with the fittings toward the rear, it fits just like it was made for it, this works out very well allowing you to use two short pieces of trans cooler hose to go over to the transmission. You do not need to put any holes in the inner fender to pull in air or to lift the cooler to get more air flow

FEATURES INCLUDE: -6AN (37*) Male Ports Barb Adapter For Hose Clamp 16 Pass Flow Pattern Anodized Billet Brackets 10" Reversible Turbo Fan Measures 10" X 16" X 4 7/8"

You can automate your fluid cooling system with these quality components from Derale Cooling Products. The Inline Fan Thermostat 13021 installs into a -6 AN port and will automatically activate your cooler fan when the fluid reaches 180°. The Fluid Control Thermostat 15719 allows fluid to bypass the cooler until the fluid temperature reaches 180°, when it opens fully to pass fluid through the cooler.

Trans Oil Cooler Hose	Transmission Fluid in-line Thermostat

 You can't live without  this in the summertime. You can completely shutoff the water to your heater core. which makes a big difference in comfort. The stock heater control valve doesn't completely shut off the hot water. This allows some hot water to go into the heater core heating the passenger compartment. In the winter just turn the valve back on. Easy to install and easy to use.