EFI FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS

There are 3 main things you will need for the Ford EFI swap: manifolds, wiring, and fuel lines/pumps.

             Most of the parts can be obtained at the junkyard or from a donor car/truck. Most of the parts can be modified to fit in the Bronco or you can just buy new. If you get parts from a donor car/truck and don't want to modify parts to make them fit, we now make just about all of the parts to make this a direct bolt-in kit into the Bronco including steel fuel and return lines, fuel tanks, ACC tanks 02 bungs and coil brackets.

There are 2 types of  stock Ford EFI setups.

            MASS AIR 89-93: Is for the guy that is building up something non-stock like a motor with a big cam or a stroked motor or will want to upgrade later. The computer looks for info from many sensors like the Throttle Position Sensor "TPS", Mass Air Sensor "MAF", Oxygen Sensors "02" and the Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor "MAP". Mass Air is basically a system that requires input from more sensors to give the computer as much info as possible so that the computer can change the air fuel mixture and timing as needed.

           SPEED DENSITY 86-95: Is just fine for the guy that wants to put in a nice stock 5.0L or 5.8L motor but doesn't want to do any motor upgrades. Speed density is basically a fuel system that follows a pre-programmed table. When the vehicle is running at 55 mph at 2000 rpm's, a pre-determined amount of fuel comes out of the injector, so you need to run all stock components.

THINGS YOU NEED TO LOOK FOR WHEN YOU GET JUNK YARD PARTS:

Not a major deal but when you have rows and rows of cars to go through you can be a little picky. Try to pull all of the stuff off of one car and then do a thro inspection of each part, a few minutes of looking could save you hundreds of dollars later. If you find something that looks bad or is broken just hunt around and you will find a better one. The pictures above are a good example of why you need to inspect the parts the guy  that bought these parts didn't get the greatest deal (and unfortunately that guy was me). I knew that the water sensor was bad and got a good one while I was there, I did not see that someone had cut the pressure side spring lock off of the fuel rail. After I bought the parts at the junk yard I had them hot tanked to get them cleaned up and found that one of the bolts that bolt the upper and lower together was broke off in the lower manifold but because I did not do a thorough inspection I can't be sure if it was that way when I got it or the engine shop did it.

YOU CAN DO THIS CONVERSION!

First you need to have the correct computer. Every computer has a main sticker on the 60-pin connector that identifies the computer.
You need to use a 1988-93 Mustang MAF Computer with our harness:
A9L / A3M / A3M1 / S0Z / D3D1 / A9S / 8LD
A9P / C3W / C3W1 / A9M / A9T / 8LF
The 1993 Cobra Computer X3Z will work with our harness, but the computer is not as good as the others.

Their are two major differences in Mass Air Flow sensor/meter both will work it just depends on how you want to mount your air filter and which plug you have or want to use. The most common is the INLINE type you will be able to identify this setup by the configuration Throttle body, hose, MAF, then hose or filter.

The other type (bolt on) is found on the later 90's cars you will be able to identify this setup by the Bullet shaped air filter box the MAF is hiding inside the box so you will just see the Throttle body, hose and the Bullet shaped air filter box. The MAF is bolted to the inside if the box with 4 bolts you will need a 8MM socket to remove it, This is nice because they are very clean but you will need a aftermarket bolt on filter or a hose to flange adapter.

We pulled this list off classicbroncos.com and it seams to fit what we know and have seen if they look like the pictures you should be fine.

COUGAR 91-93 V6-232 (3.8L)
COUGAR 91-93 V8-302 (5.0L)
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL 91-94 V6-232 (3.8L)
LINCOLN MARK SERIES 89-92 V8-302 (5.0L)
MUSTANG 88-89 V8-302 (5.0L), ID E9ZF-AA
MUSTANG 88-89 V8-302 (5.0L), ID F1ZF-AA
MUSTANG 90-92 V8-302 (5.0L)
MUSTANG 93 V8-302 (5.0L), not Cobra
SABLE 91-95 V6-232 (3.8L)
TAURUS 89-90 V6-183 (3.0L, SHO)
TAURUS 91-95 V6-183 (3.0L), SHO
TAURUS 91-95 V6-232 (3.8L)
TAURUS 93-95 V6-195 (3.2, SHO, AT)
THUNDERBIRD 91-93 V6-232 (3.8L), non supercharged
THUNDERBIRD 91-93 V8-302 (5.0L)

Here is a Throttle Body / MAF conversion from millimeters to inches

 55mm=2.16”

60mm=2.36”

65mm=2.56”

 70mm=2.755”

 75mm=2.95”

The bigger these parts are the more air flows through them the more horse power you can generate, also the bigger the parts are the more money they cost. Here is a good example stock the T-bird has a 55mm TB and makes around 200hp the stock lightning has a 90mm TB and puts out 490hp. We know there are many differences between the two but it illustrates the need for the bigger parts to produce more power.

There are a few different types of stock Ford manifolds some will work in a Bronco and some will not due to how tall they are. These are the gaskets for the 4 different versions of Ford manifolds

A:  Ford car 5.0L (1986-1998) This manifold combo comes on the Mustang, Cougar, LTD, Thunder bird and will work on the Bronco like it was made for it.

B:  Ford Truck 5.0L (1985-1996) This manifold combo will not work because it is too tall and because of the square ports you can't swap the upper with any other lower manifold.

C:  Ford truck Lightning (GT40) 351W/5.8L (1993-1996) This manifold combo will fit under the stock hood but is hard to find and expensive due to the fact that they are Ford high performance parts.

C:  Mustang Cobra (1993-1995) This manifold combo will fit under the stock hood but is hard to find and expensive due to the fact that they are Ford high performance parts.

C:  Explorer (GT40) 5.0L (19961/2-2001) This manifold combo will work in the Bronco with a 5.0L but the upper manifold will also work with the Lightning 351W/5.8L.

D:  Ford truck 351W/5.8L (1987-1996) This manifold combo will not work because it is too tall and because of the oval ports and bolt pattern  you can't swap the upper with any other lower manifold but now because of the adapter BC Broncos has come up with you can now bolt the truck lower to the mustang upper to make it fit under the hood.

These tools are cheap at the parts store but priceless at the junk yard.

The first picture is of the spring lock connector tools, slip it over the connector and pull it is that easy. They come as a set but you really only need the red and blue ones.

In the second picture is a TFI module tool it has a T-20 torx on one side and the other side is a thin walled 4.5mm socket to remove those hard to get to screws.

Built in the USA with Brand New OEM Ford connectors. It's pre wired for A/C or on-board-air and wired for an optional 3G wiring connection kit. This harness also has plugs for a VSS, fuel cut off switch and EGR eliminator. Works with any performance upgrade or engine diagnostic tool designed for the Mustang 5.0L

Your should use the early 1985-93 TPS sensor to plug into our Harness. We can change your harness for any of the later TPS sensors, but it will delay your order and cost extra.

The EGR eliminator is incorporated in all RJM EFI wiring harnesses, if you are using the EFI harness out of a stock Ford and you  want to remove the EGR just plug this connector into the harness to keep the computer happy, it will give the computer the info it is looking for without that ugly EGR mess.

The 3G plug you can plug this harness is into the RJM harness to hook up a 130amp 3G alternator. Because the EFI system pulls more power you need a bigger alternator to keep up with it.

The test connector mounting clip with this clip you can mount the computer test port to the firewall so it is easy to find and won't get damaged and makes your install much cleaner.

Sometimes called an inertia switch or fuel cut off switch, this important safety device is something that you should have when you put EFI in your Bronco. It is designed to shut off the fuel pump in the event of a roll over. The plug for this safety switch is incorporated in all RJM EFI wiring harnesses.  

We offer two switches new and used. The used switch just sits in the trunk of stock Ford cars and is usually never used, We remove these from cars that are not wrecked, we clean and test them to be sure they work properly, they work fine they are just cheaper.

BC Broncos has come up with an adapter that will allow you to use the 351w lower truck manifold and the car 5.0 HO upper manifold. This will allow you to put a 351W with EFI under a stock steel hood in your Bronco. Comes with two gaskets and all necessary hardware. This is a true bolt-on fix for your hood and firewall clearance problems. Plus you may gain a little horsepower.

Here are a few pictures of a Bronco with a fuel injected 351W with the stock Ford truck upper installed. As you can see it is much taller, you probably could clear the hood with a body lift but because of how the TB is mounted in the front of the manifold, the hoses and filter stuff is up front were the hood is at its lowest point . We drove this Bronco around for the day and without the hood on, the driver had a hard time seeing around the setup.

From this picture the height difference is not too bad until you add the other parts . The picture on the right is the 351W/5.8 Ford truck upper manifold The real killer is that the throttle body bolts to the front of the manifold and the t-cable brackets bolt to where the measuring stick is touching the manifold, then you add the hose and filter and it all fits were the hood is at it's lowest point. The picture on the left is of the Mustang 302/5.0L upper and adapter as you can see the throttle body bolts to the side of the manifold so that the filter and ducting are out of the way and come out in the middle of the manifold where the hood is higher.

In the first picture you see how we can install a fuel pump the tank. The hole is large enough to get your hand in the tank to bolt a fuel pump to the mount on the bottom of the tank. The top plate holds the sending unit and the connection for the fuel pump.

In the second picture you can see all of the inlets, starting from the left you have

#1 vent/return #2 vent/return #3 fuel pickup #4 fuel filler #5 filler vent

This is the pump you need when you use factory Ford Fuel Injection and want to use an in-tank pump. The great thing about having the fuel pump in the tank is you don't have anything extra taking up the very limited space in the engine compartment like high and low pressure fuel pumps and an accumulator filter. The biggest reason for electric fuel pumps fail is from over heating, buy putting the pump in the tank, the fuel keeps the pump cool extending it's life. This pump is a standard replacement mustang fuel pump and filter strainer so the fuel pressure (40 psi) and flow rate (40-50 gph) are exactly what you need when doing an EFI swap.

The sending unit comes with our tank. This is a replacement unit with the 5 screw holes (round plate). This is a standard in the aftermarket. We used this on our early style fuel tanks (for about 5 years) until we made the change to the in-tank fuel pump design  in 2006. Now we use a 16 hole (square plate) design. The plate is different but the sender is the same. This sender will work with a stock Early Bronco fuel gauge or any aftermarket fuel gauge that requires a ohm range from 10 to 70, meaning that if you test your fuel gauge, you should get around 10 ohms when the tank is full and around 70 ohms when it is empty. 

     5 HOLE FOR OUR OLDER TANK                                      THIS SENDING UNIT FITS IN OUR 16 HOLE EFI TANK COVER PLATE

The fuel line mounts are made for the Early Bronco to hold a 3/8 fuel line a 5/16 return line and a 3/16 brake line. To install just remove the stock plastic clamps (upper right) thread the stock hole with a 3/8 X 16 tap and bolt on the mounts. The mounts are a 3 piece kit made out of Aluminum (1 upper, 1 lower) and come with one 3/8 stainless steel socket cap screw. The 18 piece kit is 6 clamps (6 upper, 6 lower) and 6 Stainless Steel socket cap screws.

What if all of your stock mounts are missing how do you know where the new mounts go? We checked several frames and they were the same, on most of the mounts an inch + or - either way won't make a difference. start your measurement from the front left frame rail the first hole for the mount will be at about 24", 40", 54", 91" and the last at 110"

The lines: We have several options with these fuel lines, you have the choice of the carbureted set or the EFI set you also have the choice of getting them as a deluxe set. When we designed these lines we kept in mind that some Bronco guys would be using their side tank and some would not, some would run an electric fuel pump and some would use there mechanical one. We decided that the best solution would be to put in a removable 8" line right where the side tank and fuel selector valve are located, so that any of those options could be added or removed at anytime. The lines are zinc coated 3/8" and 5/16" steel line, C&C bent and then double flared to assure a good seal.

The Front line: This line starts at about the oil filter, on top of the frame and then drops down over the side and runs along the frame until where the side tank and selector valve tie in. This line has an inverted flair fitting on one side and a 3/8 hose barb on the other, you can replace this fitting with an AN fitting if you want to use steel braded flex hose from the hard line to the fuel rails.

The Center line: This line is only 8" long so it can be removed so that you can thread hose barbs on to the other two lines this then allowes you to plum in or remove a side tank, fuel selector, or an electric fuel pump. You can replace these fittings with an AN fittings if you want to use steel braded flex hose from the hard line to what ever you want to plum in.

The Rear line: This line continues on to about 6 inches before the rear cross member so that you can add in a fuel pump or a thread on the optional fuel filter. You can replace the fitting with an AN fitting if you want to use steel braded flex hose from the hard line to the fuel tank.

The Deluxe upgrade: This upgrade makes this a true bolt in kit  it comes with 5 Fuel line mounts, high pressure fuel filter and filter quick disconnect.

The return lines: Follow the same basic path as the fuel line kit and are offered separately for the guys that bought the fuel line for carb and are now doing an EFI conversion

The difference between the 2 tank kit and the 1 tank kit is that the 2 tank kit comes with barb fittings and no 8" line while the 1 tank kit has the 8" line and no barbed fittings for the side tank.

    EFI FUEL LINES                                      EFI DELUXE LINES  

These lines are a little different: If you are using the stock 351W truck fuel rails the fuel line connections come out the back of the motor. All of the lines are the same with one exception as they come up the frame rail toward the engine they turn and go up along the firewall to the back of the block.

       351W fuel lines                 351W deluxe fuel line

If you are not using an in-tank pump you will need to use a low pressure fuel pump, a Acc tank and a high pressure fuel pump. The first picture is the low pressure fuel pump bolted to a stock hole in the frame near the transmission cross member, plumed into our steel fuel line kit. The pump could have been mounted better and plumed direct with different fittings and drilling a new hole in the frame but we wanted to show it could be mounted without drilling extra holes.

These electric fuel tank selector valves replace the old manual tank selector under your seat for easy, trouble-free operation. The 3-port valve is the solution for carbureted vehicles or can be used with a transfer pump to move fuel from the side tank to the main tank. The 6-port valve is the answer to the dual tanks dilemma for EFI-equipped vehicles, as it switches both the supply and return lines simultaneously. Best of all, either can be easily wired to the existing fuel gauge selector switch on your dash, so you can switch the fuel gauge between tanks at the same time you switch tanks for fuel delivery.

Spring lock connectors for the high pressure and low pressure side of the fuel rails. They have a barb fitting to put a 5/16 rubber hose  on one side and the locking connector on the other side to fit into the fuel rail  

These are the correct fuel safe o-rings for fuel injectors. Sold in pairs or by the set of 16.

This throttle cable and brackets kit allows you to use the Early Bronco throttle pedal without any modification, on an fuel injected 86-93 Ford car throttle body. Giving you a smooth pedal feel without any of the modification work to the stock pedal. The throttle cable kit comes with a Stainless Steel cable, a Clear Coated Stainless Steel sheath with a Teflon inner liner and two powder coated brackets.

The kick down cable and brackets allow you to use the Early Bronco C4 or C6 or AOD transmissions without cutting or modifying the stock parts, they are just removed. The kick down cable kit comes with a Stainless Steel cable, a C lear Coated Stainless Steel cable sheath with a Teflon inner liner , a mounting bracket and a kick down lever that are powder coated black. Length of cables very by application.

We designed all of our kick down cables as an add on to our throttle cable kits so if you are ordering just a kick down cable you will need to order an additional bracket.

EFI

C-4

C-6/AOD

This is a clear coated polished aluminum plate that replaces the stock type cover plate on 86-91 Ford cars. It is engraved with the word "Bronco" Also included: 4 stainless steel counter sink screws. WE NOW OFFER THIS BRONCO COVER PLATE IN REVERSE FOR THE GUYS THAT WANT TO RUN THE TB ON THE LEFT SIDE.

This is a complete manifold gasket kit when you go to bolt on later 5.0L upper and lower EFI manifolds. This Kit comes with FELPRO lower manifold to head, upper to lower manifold, distributor o-ring and IAB to throttle body gaskets. This kit also has a nice feature the lower manifold gasket to block are rubber that have non-slip lips to keep them in place.

This is a good idea if you are building you engine over time and want to seal it up, or want to install the motor in your Bronco without the upper manifold on it and be sure that nothing gets in the intake. You can use duct tape but if it is on the manifold every long it is hard to get the tape residue off, but sometimes in life things come up or get put on the back burner and before you know it the tape you put on gets old and gets holes in it, then it starts to rain.

      351W/5.8 Truck lower                302/5.0L Mustang lower   

This is a NEW billet aluminum distributor used when upgrading to EFI. The distributor body is made of 6061 T6 billet aluminum and features sealed ball bearings, 1/2" hardened steel shaft and a steel gear. This distributor comes with a  new TFI module and  a new cap and rotor with brass contacts. We carry two distributors one for a 351W/5.8L and one for a 302/5.0L The one for the 351W is a direct drop in, on the 302 you will need to slightly bend the fuel rail mounting bracket, it won't affect the rail it is just a little to close to the new distributor.

Our new coil bracket bolts up to a Sanden A/C compressor to fit nicely on the engine in front of the distributor allowing you to use a short coil wire. This bracket also has a place to mount a noise suppressor comes with mounting hardware.

      

Want to get more spark the Pertronix 50,000 volt E-core coil will do it, when teamed up with the Pertronix TFI ignition module you will get 100% more energy across the spark plug gap compared to the stock coil 

O2 sensors are needed when you are doing a EFI swap. We have made an O2 bung that allows you to mount an O2 sensor in any exhaust pipe deep enough to get a good exhaust sample. Just drill a 1" hole in the pipe and weld it in. Sold in pairs.

You have two different options when you put in a Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS).

If you are using a stock speedometer and D-20 T-case, you need kit part # 22-00016 (cable, vss and plug)

If you are using a stock speedometer and an Atlas T-case, you need the in-line cable kit part # 22-00015 (cable to Speedo, plug, VSS and cable to Transfer-case)

If you are using a STAK transfer case, you need to use an aftermarket GPS based speedometer. We are working on a way to get the computer the same type of signal as the VSS.