STEERING LINKAGE

* (cinch lock nuts are a one time use nut, once you tighten it down and need to take it off you need to replace it)

**(please look at the how to measure instructions button to the bottom of this section)

When we designed our tie rod conversion we thought long and hard about how and why a heim setup should be. We liked the F150 tie rod setup we usually used because of how the drag link met the tie rod it was far out as possible to the passenger knuckle but the replacement parts were expensive. We were not willing to sell a heim tie rod setup because it required you to drill a straight 3/4 hole in the knuckle, after a while this would wallow out the hole in the knuckle and give you sloppy steering. So we came up with a tapered Heim Stud and a drag link saddle this now allowed us to have the best of both worlds, the strength of a tapered hole and the advantage of less bump steer without having to worry about the hole in the knuckle wearing out also the extra benefit of a high quality no maintenance grease less heim joint

WARNING: When going to a Tie Rod Over: You can not have a drop track bar bracket, if you do the first time you hit a big bump the drop bracket could hit and bent the tie rod. Also you can't use the old "on the radius arm cap style shock mount" it will interfere with the tie rod linkage.  You should also trim the lower track bar stud to get a  better turning radius.

After installing tie rod over check for binding or rubbing and free movement at full compression and full droop with steering at full lock left and right. Check all SRE and TRE joints to be sure they are never in a bind at the pitman arm, saddle or knuckles.
 

B.C. Broncos tie rod over bushing installed with tapered heim stud.

How to measure steering.	How to install it.	How to align it.

WARNING: When going to a Tie Rod Over: You can not have a drop track bar bracket, if you do the first time you hit a big bump the drop bracket could hit and bent the tie rod. Also you can't use the old "on the radius arm cap style shock mount" it will interfere with the tie rod linkage.  You should also trim the lower track bar stud to get a  better turning radius.

The adjustable track bar Our track bar is made of 1-1/8" 1/4 wall DOM then threaded 7" to allow adjustment from stock to 7" lifts, we then notch the lower end and TIG weld on the 1/4" wall tubing for the stock lower bushing, then paint them and install the JMX12T heim joint/jam nut and poly urethane bushings.

We designed this Adjustable track bar after breaking 3 of the super lift type that most Bronco houses sell. With a 4.5" lift we had to thread the upper part out too far and the threaded part would break off, this makes for a real fun trip on the trail. We changed a few bends and made the upper end a heim joint with misalignment shims for a 9/16 or 5/8 bolt and the lower end uses a stock type track bar bushing. We looked into using a heim joint on the lower also but found that if the jam nut slipped the bar would rotate and jam againsed the diff cover and either bend the track bar or the diff cover. The upper bushing is the one that usually goes bad and has the most stress on it.

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We do not recommend using a drop bracket unless you absolutely have to or the Bronco is for the street only. The drop bracket is hard on your Bronco frame because it is so long it acts as a lever, Over time this could cause the bracket to tear the frame open like a tin can especially during high flex situations.

WARNING: When going to a Tie Rod Over: You can not have a drop track bar bracket, if you do the first time you hit a big bump the drop bracket could hit and bent the tie rod. Also you can't use the old "on the radius arm cap style shock mount" it will interfere with the tie rod linkage.  You should also trim the lower track bar stud to get a  better turning radius.

B.C. Broncos tie rod over bushing is  tapered inside and out.

A popular modification to Early Broncos is the "tie rod over" conversion. This modification flips the tie rod over, and locates it ON TOP of the steering knuckles, rather than under them, the way the Bronco came from the factory. This modification lifts the tie rod about three inches higher than stock, where it is much less likely to clash with rocks and other trail obstacles. This conversion also helps reduce drag link angle, thereby reducing bump-steer. This results in fewer hang-ups and bent tie rods off-road, and a more stable ride on-road. The picture at left shows the Tie Rod Over Bushings being used to put the tie rod on top of the knuckles. The application in the picture is with F-150 tie rod and drag link (available below), as well as the F-150 power steering box, knuckle and disk brakes mounted on the Bronco Dana 44 front end. Notice the tie rod is about 3" higher than stock and the drag link has less angle. The lesser angle decreases bump steer.

If You Want...

F-150 knuckles & stock Bronco tie rod (stock tie-rod position)

You need two TRA-1 Tie Rod Adapter bushings.

 

Tie rod over conversion with F-150 tie rod & drag link

You need two TRO-1 Tie Rod Over bushings and one TRO-2 Drag Link bushing. This will also require reaming your knuckles and drag link, and the F-150 tie rod and drag link will need shortening. This conversion works with either the stock Bronco or the F-150 steering knuckles.

 

Tie rod over conversion with stock Bronco tie rod & drag link

You need two TRO Tie Rod Over bushings and two TRA Tie Rod Adapter bushings and one TRA Bushing for the Drag Link. This will also require reaming your knuckles and drag link. This conversion works with either the stock Bronco or the F-150 steering knuckles.

 

WARNING: When going to a Tie Rod Over: You can not have a drop track bar bracket, if you do the first time you hit a big bump the drop bracket could hit and bent the tie rod. Also you can't use the old "on the radius arm cap style shock mount" it will interfere with the tie rod linkage.  You should also trim the lower track bar stud to get a  better turning radius.

This is the tapered reamer we use here at B.C. Broncos on our F-150 tie rod and tie rod over conversions. It has a taper of 1.5" per foot. Now you can buy this hard-to-find tool and do your own conversions. We carry two versions of the reamer to fit your budget. The economy reamer is perfect for do-it-yourselfers. The Professional unit is better suited for shops and clubs where it will see more frequent use. As with all tools, if they are misused they will not last long.         With a little cutting oil these reams will stay sharp and cut nice smooth holes for years.