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STEERING LINKAGE

 
BC TIE ROD CONVERSION
Our tie rod conversion is a great setup. We first start with 1-1/8" 1/4" wall DOM tubing and thread the tube 3" on each side, we do not weld threaded bungs to a tube. The next step is to TIG weld the press formed 1/4" thick saddle to the tie rod tube, after that it is easy we just paint the tie rod and drag link, thread in the rod ends/jam nuts and ship it out. The kit comes with threaded custom** tie rod, drag link, 4 JMX12T rod ends / 4 jam nuts, 3 heim studs, 6 one time use cinch lock nuts*, 3 safety washers and the saddle bushings / hardware.

* (cinch lock nuts are a one time use nut, once you tighten it down and need to take it off you need to replace it)

**(please look at the how to measure instructions button to the bottom of this section)

When we designed our tie rod conversion we thought long and hard about how and why a heim setup should be. We liked the F150 tie rod setup we usually used because of how the drag link met the tie rod it was far out as possible to the passenger knuckle but the replacement parts were expensive. We were not willing to sell a heim tie rod setup because it required you to drill a straight 3/4 hole in the knuckle, after a while this would wallow out the hole in the knuckle and give you sloppy steering. So we came up with a tapered Heim Stud and a drag link saddle this now allowed us to have the best of both worlds, the strength of a tapered hole and the advantage of less bump steer without having to worry about the hole in the knuckle wearing out also the extra benefit of a high quality no maintenance grease less heim joint

WARNING: When going to a Tie Rod Over: You can not have a drop track bar bracket, if you do the first time you hit a big bump the drop bracket could hit and bent the tie rod. Also you can't use the old "on the radius arm cap style shock mount" it will interfere with the tie rod linkage.  You should also trim the lower track bar stud to get a  better turning radius.

After installing tie rod over check for binding or rubbing and free movement at full compression and full droop with steering at full lock left and right. Check all SRE and TRE joints to be sure they are never in a bind at the pitman arm, saddle or knuckles.
 


 

B.C. Broncos tie rod over bushing installed with tapered heim stud.

Cut away of tapered bushing installed

 

       Instruction button

How to measure steering.

 How to install it.

How to align it.

 


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Part Number
                   PART            

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47-00311
BC STEERING SET UP

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47-00350
TAPERED ROD END STUDS

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47-00340
HEIM JOINT REDUCER BUSHINGS PR

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47-00320
DRAGLINK/RAM ASSIST SADDLE (WELD ON)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
ROD ENDS (HEIM JOINTS)
All rod ends are not created equally. Don't be fooled by company's that have a super deal on rod ends most likely they are not the quality you are expecting. They might look the same at a glance but they make around 10 rod ends that are the same size but are made from very different materials, depending on there use. Some guys want a rod end that has a grease zirk, at first this seams like a good idea but because they have to drill a hole and tap it, this makes it much weaker than the one that doesn't have a zirk. What about the rod ends that have a self-oiling bronze race, this also seams like a good idea at first, but these rod ends are designed for actuating linkage on heavy equipment not for the high stress and necessity of steering. We only use the JMX12T rod ends with our tie rod setups these are the best and strongest for this size group. with a static radial load of 28,090 lbs and a Teflon race these rod ends will out last All others without any maintenance.

If you can't verify the # don't buy it Ask for the part number and look it up click here

                                      

 

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Part Number
                   PART            

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47-00330
ROD ENDS  ( HEIM JOINTS )

 

 

 

 

 
F-150 TIE ROD CONVERSION
The F-150 tie rod and drag link are easy to find, affordable, and stronger than the stock Bronco equipment. To fit the Early Bronco Dana 44 front end, the F-150 tie rod and drag link have to be shortened. We offer the shortened tie rod and drag link as a kit, or we can perform the necessary modifications on parts that you supply. Many who have acquired the parts for an F-150 front disc brake and/or power steering conversion may already have the necessary parts on hand. With a Tie Rod Over you can not have a drop track bar bracket or the old shock "on the radius arm cap style shock mount"

WARNING: When going to a Tie Rod Over: You can not have a drop track bar bracket, if you do the first time you hit a big bump the drop bracket could hit and bent the tie rod. Also you can't use the old "on the radius arm cap style shock mount" it will interfere with the tie rod linkage.  You should also trim the lower track bar stud to get a  better turning radius.

How to measure steering.

How to install it.

How to align it.

 

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Part Number                    PART            

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47-00250
F-150 TIE ROD OVER CONVERSION  66-75 KNUCKLES

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47-00251
F-150 TIE ROD UNDER CONVERSION 76-77 KNUCKLES

 

 
ADJUSTABLE TRACK BAR

The adjustable track bar Our track bar is made of 1-1/8" 1/4 wall DOM then threaded 7" to allow adjustment from stock to 7" lifts, we then notch the lower end and TIG weld on the 1/4" wall tubing for the stock lower bushing, then paint them and install the JMX12T heim joint/jam nut and poly urethane bushings.

We designed this Adjustable track bar after breaking 3 of the super lift type that most Bronco houses sell. With a 4.5" lift we had to thread the upper part out too far and the threaded part would break off, this makes for a real fun trip on the trail. We changed a few bends and made the upper end a heim joint with misalignment shims for a 9/16 or 5/8 bolt and the lower end uses a stock type track bar bushing. We looked into using a heim joint on the lower also but found that if the jam nut slipped the bar would rotate and jam againsed the diff cover and either bend the track bar or the diff cover. The upper bushing is the one that usually goes bad and has the most stress on it.


 

                

    76-77           66-75

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Part Number                    PART            

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54-00341 ADJUSTABLE TRACK BAR 66-75

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54-00342 ADJUSTABLE TRACK BAR 76-77

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54-00361 UPPER TRACK BAR BOLT 66-75

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54-00362 UPPER TRACK BAR BOLT 76-77

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54-00371 9/16 UPPER TRACK BAR MISALIGNMENT SHIM 66-75

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54-00372 5/8 UPPER TRACK BAR MISALIGNMENT SHIMS 76-77

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54-00351 9/16 UPPER TRACK BAR BOLT, NUT AND MISALIGNMENT SHIM KIT 66-75

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54-00352 5/8 UPPER TRACK BAR BOLT, NUT AND MISALIGNMENT SHIM KIT 76-77

 

 
 
DROP TRACK BAR BRACKET

We do not recommend using a drop bracket unless you absolutely have to or the Bronco is for the street only. The drop bracket is hard on your Bronco frame because it is so long it acts as a lever, Over time this could cause the bracket to tear the frame open like a tin can especially during high flex situations.

WARNING: When going to a Tie Rod Over: You can not have a drop track bar bracket, if you do the first time you hit a big bump the drop bracket could hit and bent the tie rod. Also you can't use the old "on the radius arm cap style shock mount" it will interfere with the tie rod linkage.  You should also trim the lower track bar stud to get a  better turning radius.

 

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Part Number                    PART            

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54-00311 TRACK BAR DROP BRACKET 66-75

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54-00312 TRACK BAR DROP BRACKET 76-77

 

 

 

 

 
DROP PITMAN ARM
If your tie rods are under the knuckle and want to lift your Bronco you will need a 3" drop pitman arm. You can save money by using your stock pitman arm and putting your tie rods on top of the knuckles this gives you about a 3" steering lift.

 

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Part Number                    PART            

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54-00212 66-75  DROP PITMAN ARM

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54-00222 76-77  DROP PITMAN ARM

 

 

 

 

 
BALL JOINTS EXTREME DUTY

These extreme duty ball joints stood up to the test of Baja. We ran a test during the 2007 Baja 1000 to see which ball joint set held up best. On the left we used the extreme duty  upper and lower and on the right we used the standard duty upper and lower and the results were amazing. In the race we made it 1096 miles and when we got home and inspected the ball joints we found that the set on the left (extreme duty) were still good but the ones on the right ( standard duty) were completely wore out. Now granted 1000 miles in Baja is Brutal and normal guys will never see half the stress or air that we put these ball joints through, that is why we still sell the standard ball joints as well as the extreme ones. Bad ball joints can cause lots of steering and tire ware problems, it is cheaper to take the knuckles off and have them pressed in at a machine shop or if you have a ball joint install tool kit ( P/N 93-10111 ) you can install them your self.

 

Extreme ball joints

 

 

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Part Number
                   PART            

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47-00520
UPPER AND LOWER BALL JOINTS (FOR 1 SIDE)
 
 
BALL JOINTS STANDARD DUTY
These ball joints are standard duty replacement ball joints for Dana 44 front ends. Bad ball joints can cause lots of steering and tire ware problems, it is cheaper to take the knuckles off and have them pressed in at a machine shop or if you have a ball joint install tool kit ( P/N 93-10111 ) you can install them your self.

 

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Part Number
                   PART            

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47-00510
UPPER AND LOWER BALL JOINTS (FOR 1 SIDE)

 

 

 

 

 
"TIE ROD OVER" BUSHINGS

A popular modification to Early Broncos is the "tie rod over" conversion. This modification flips the tie rod over, and locates it ON TOP of the steering knuckles, rather than under them, the way the Bronco came from the factory. This modification lifts the tie rod about three inches higher than stock, where it is much less likely to clash with rocks and other trail obstacles. This conversion also helps reduce drag link angle, thereby reducing bump-steer. This results in fewer hang-ups and bent tie rods off-road, and a more stable ride on-road. The picture at left shows the Tie Rod Over Bushings being used to put the tie rod on top of the knuckles. The application in the picture is with F-150 tie rod and drag link (available below), as well as the F-150 power steering box, knuckle and disk brakes mounted on the Bronco Dana 44 front end. Notice the tie rod is about 3" higher than stock and the drag link has less angle. The lesser angle decreases bump steer.

Tie rod over the knuckle installed on a Bronco TRO bushing

Here is the tie rod installed on the top and what it looks like uninstalled

If You Want...

F-150 knuckles & stock Bronco tie rod under (stock tie-rod position)
You need two TRA-1 Tie Rod Adapter bushings.
Tie rod over conversion with F-150 tie rod & drag link
You need two TRO-1 Tie Rod Over bushings and one TRO-2 Drag Link bushing. This will also require reaming your knuckles and drag link, and the F-150 tie rod and drag link will need shortening. This conversion works with either the stock Bronco or the F-150 steering knuckles.
Tie rod over conversion with stock Bronco tie rod & drag link
You need two TRO Tie Rod Over bushings and two TRA Tie Rod Adapter bushings and one TRA Bushing for the Drag Link. This will also require reaming your knuckles and drag link. This conversion works with either the stock Bronco or the F-150 steering knuckles.
 

                                              

 

 

WARNING: When going to a Tie Rod Over: You can not have a drop track bar bracket, if you do the first time you hit a big bump the drop bracket could hit and bent the tie rod. Also you can't use the old "on the radius arm cap style shock mount" it will interfere with the tie rod linkage.  You should also trim the lower track bar stud to get a  better turning radius.

 
 

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Part Number                    PART            

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47-00270 TIE ROD OVER BUSHINGS

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47-00261 TIE ROD ADAPTER BUSHINGS
 

 

 

 

 

 
STEERING BALL JOINT REAMER

This is the tapered reamer we use here at B.C. Broncos on our F-150 tie rod and tie rod over conversions. It has a taper of 1.5" per foot. Now you can buy this hard-to-find tool and do your own conversions With a little cutting oil these reams will stay sharp and cut nice smooth holes.

                                       

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Part Number                PART                  

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93-30032 ECONOMY REAMER (GOOD FOR 15-20 KNUCKLES)

 

 
1/4" WHEEL SPACERS
The 77 knuckles are different than all of the other Bronco knuckles. The arm of the knuckle is smaller and closer to the wheel, this is also the year that they put a different wheel offset on the Bronco this is the reason you need wheel spacers when doing a tie-rod over conversion. The wheels become too close to the tie-rod ball joint they are just close enough to nock the wheel weights off the rim.
 

 

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Part Number                    PART            

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29-11010 1/4" WHEEL SPACERS SET OF 2

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29-11020 1-1/2" WHEEL SPACERS EACH

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29-12000 WHEEL STUD FOR 1-1/2 WHEEL SPACER

 

 

 

 

 

 


BC Broncos -110 Business Drive / PO BOX 69 Ingram, TX 78025
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